Prepare the area by digging a trench 12-18 inches wide and 12 inches deep to allow for proper burial of organic matter.
Tip: Maintain an open trench while digging to turn soil over more efficiently.
2
For deeper soil improvement, utilize 'bastard trenching' by making the trench at least two feet wide and breaking up the exposed subsoil with a spading-fork.
Tip: This ensures organic materials reach deeper root zones.
3
Apply barn-yard or stable manure. If applying in the fall, fresh manure may be plowed under to decay by spring; if applying in spring, use only decayed or partly decayed manure.
Tip: Decayed manure is immediately available for crop use.
4
Distribute sheep manure over the surface immediately after the ground has been broken up.
Tip: Use a rake or harrow to mix it thoroughly with the surface soil.
5
Apply hen manure as a top-dressing after crops have started growth, or mix it with dry earth and store for a few weeks before application to facilitate distribution.
Tip: Hen manure is more concentrated than other stable manures.
6
Apply garden compost as a thin layer (mulch) on the surface of the ground while plants are growing.
Tip: Limit application to 1 inch per 100 square feet of garden area.
7
For specific tuber planting, dig V-shaped trenches and lay a 'nourishing cushion' of garden compost along the bottom before placing seeds.
Tip: This provides direct nutrient access to the developing root system.
8
Mix organic fertilizers into the soil of the furrows specifically before planting if only a small quantity of fertilizer is available.
Tip: Thorough mixing prevents direct contact burn on seeds.
Pro Tips
Barn-yard manure improves sandy soils by increasing moisture retention and makes clay soils more porous.
Avoid using fresh barn-yard manure in soils already rich in humus, as it may increase susceptibility to potato scab.
Organic manures help make mineral particles in the soil soluble and available as plant foods.